It’s not new – in fact, it’s pushing 50 – but as the Guardian reports, this Umbrian restaurant still shines. Its regional focus is “a position they adopted long before lesser osterie clocked that concentrating on a specific region was a good wheeze. It wasn’t whisked up in a boardroom, it just is”.

That means vast bowls of fresh pasta, made in-house every day; meat and fish that are never frozen; and truffles in the season. “Much of the produce here is sourced direct from small Umbrian farms,” Time Out says, and the menu changes twice daily.

After all, it adds, if Vasco & Piero have been doing this for so long, they must be doing something right.

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